Taste Test: Light Vanilla Ice... Health Article

If nothing goes better with fresh summer berries than a scoop of velvety ice cream, "plain vanilla" is no longer the most obvious option. In fact, it is increasingly hemmed in on all sides of the dairy freezer by a wealth of new "healthy" specialty choices.

What tastes best?

EatingWell decided to put a number of nationally available "light," "low-fat" and "low-carb" vanilla ice creams through a blind taste testing. The results are encouraging for those looking for an indulgence that may better fit their dietary needs. First, however, one needs to understand what’s behind these new labels: Low-fat ice creams by regulation must contain less than 3 grams of fat per 1⁄2-cup serving. Light ice creams, on the other hand, need only have half the fat or two-thirds the calories found in the same brand’s regular version. As a result, light forms of some ice creams, such as Ben & Jerry’s, might actually have more fat and calories per serving than the regular, unlightened versions of other brands, such as Breyers. Low-carb still has no legal definition. Buyers beware.

Judged by our panel, including both food professionals and amateur connoisseurs, "light" ice creams with a bit more fat and a good vanilla flavor did the best and would easily pass muster with most vanilla lovers. The low-carb ice creams, which all had the highest amounts of fat, rated well for texture and appearance but came up quite short on taste, a likely consequence of their artificial sweeteners.

These ice creams are not for everyone, especially anyone who savors the full richness of the real thing infrequently or in moderation. Nonetheless, for anyone who likes to partake more often than not, one of these reformulated options may be the ticket to the very special sensations of ice cream, but with a lightened load of fat, calories or carbohydrates.

Excellent

Ben & Jerry’s Vanilla Light (87¢, 160 calories, 7 grams fat per 1⁄2-cup serving) This "light" ice cream won hands down with a unanimous six first-place votes, but it is really only light in comparison to Ben & Jerry’s ultra-rich, super-premium vanilla and its extravagant competitors, such as Häagen-Dazs. Woods: "It has a very cool balance between creamy and light." Guttler: "Just right. Just creamy enough." Alemena: "Clean vanilla flavor."

Very Good

Edy’s Grand Light (also sold as Dreyer’s Grand Light: 25¢, 100 calories, 3.5 grams fat per 1⁄2-cup serving) Well-liked by our tasters, this ice cream is made with a new "slow churning" process that creates creaminess with half the fat of the Ben & Jerry’s Vanilla Light. Brown: "If it’s better for me, I’d buy this one." Alemena: "Creamy, but artificial-tasting vanilla flavor." Gignoux: "Very creamy, subtle vanilla flavor."

Good

Breyers Natural Vanilla Light (27¢, 110 calories, 3 grams fat per 1⁄2-cup serving) Even here in the land of Ben and Jerry, classic Breyers is the clean-tasting, affordable brand chosen by many "real Vermonters." This lighter version got lots of attention for its appearance but struck several tasters as overpoweringly sweet with an odd lingering flavor. Watts: "Good flavor but too sweet." Brown: "Nice flecks of vanilla, but I detected an aftertaste of bacon or onions."

Mixed Reviews

Healthy Choice Premium Low-Fat Vanilla (31¢, 110 calories, 2 grams fat per 1⁄2-cup serving)

The ubiquitous low-fat brand rated well for its texture but fell short on flavor. Brown: "Oh boy, that’s different. Creamy, in a good way." Woods: "Very artificial. Nice creamy mouthfeel though." Alemena: "It has an artificial vanilla-liqueur quality."

Breyers CarbSmart (27¢, 130 calories, 9 grams fat per 1⁄2-cup serving) For those who count carbs, here is something that looks and feels like ice cream in the mouth. Alas, a long list of artificial thickeners and sweeteners does not add up to fine taste. Alemena: "I don’t like this at all. Too white, too sweet. I only know it’s vanilla because you tell me it is." Watts: "Mediocre." Guttler: "It gave my mouth a weird taste."

Atkins Endulge Super Premium (87¢, 140 calories, 12 grams fat per 1⁄2-cup serving)

The ice cream from the low-carb standard bearer failed to impress five out of six on our panel. Brown: "Funky flavor, like there are hints of Kaopectate or a lot of something not homegrown." Gignoux: "It has a fluffy, Milky Way or Snickers kind of flavor. It’s my favorite for some reason—it would go well with chocolate sauce."

THE TASTING PANEL:

Montse Alemena, food scientist

Richard W. Brown, photographer

Reg Gignoux, venture capitalist

Lily Guttler, dairy farmer’s daughter

Richard Watts, public outreach specialist

Judy Woods, caterer

Resources

Healthy Eating for Kids Recipes and Menus
Chunky Blueberry Sauce
Healthy Diet Recipes and Tips
Healthy Eating for Kids Center